c notch install

remove the four bed bolts on each side.
remove taillights
remove wiring underneath that is attached to the bed.
remove four screws holding the filler neck inside the door.
remove the one bolt that holds the filler neck inside the fender wells.
get a friend to remove the bed.
once the bed is off, it will be helpful to remove the tank. that depends on what you plan on doing.
remove the lines from the tank. i found it helpful to mark them for their location as you pull them off. also, remove the sending unit plug.
to do so, remove the 4 bolts holding the tank on. 2 in front, 2 in back.
the tank will have to come out from under the truck.
remove all lines and electrical from the side of the frame. just undo from the plastic keepers and move up.
remove line from the round tube. it has a 90 degree bend in it.
once the tank is out, weld in a piece of steel to help keep the frame straight and even.
remove brake hydraulic pump, and the little line holder beneath it. these can lay down on the axle.
i used the hole in the frame over the axle as my center point for the notch. i marked out the center on the notches as well.
using the hole in the frame, i used a speed square ( a triangle shaped tool used for finding degrees when cutting lumber ) to mark out the center. i just stood it on the frame and used it as a guide for the center of the notches.
first i tacked up one side of the notch, then the other side.
then i went and did the same for the other side.
i cut each piece of the notch seperate, just to make sure i had everything right.
to make sure they were even, i took a measurement from the back of the cab.
once i was happy with the measurements, i welded everything up solid. just dont weld on the inside of the notch, the part where the axle should travel up into, as you will have to cut this are out later.
once its all welded up, inside the frame and outside, you cab cut the frame where the axle will travel. USE A SAWZ ALL!
once these are cut out, you can weld in the rest of the notch pieces.
all of my top and bottom pieces were made from 3" by 3/16" flat iron.
to make sure i kept the frame straight, solid and even, i welded in a piece of 3" x 2" x 11ga rectangle tube.
from here, its up to you as to what you do with the brake lines and hydraulic cylinder, and fuel tank.
get your buddy to help put the bed back on.
keep hiom around as you will need help getting the bed lined up to get the bolts back in.
put taillights back in, and re attach all wiring.
I HOPE THIS HELPS SOME ONE ALONG THE LINE!!!!

forgot to add in, but with the notch, you will have to cut your bed open. i used the bed bolt holes as a guide. i think they ended up being 14 and 30 inches. you will have to cut the whole width of the bed out for it to fit back on. GOOD LUCK
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pretty good write up.

i wish i would have taken the time to get pics, but was trying to get as much done in as little time.

yeh everybody likes pics but once you get in to it you forget about the camera cuz the only picture you are thinking about is the finished product. i usually try to get as many pics as i can so i can do how-tos. but once i start to bag my truck i wont do a how-to cuz its my first time and i jsut want to get it done so i can drag. haha

i hear ya~!