Engine Rebuild Information Needed

Byron wrote:

ever find you seal kit?

I found these guys, and they seem to have some good kits! I talked with them over the phone, they were more then willing to help out.

http://www.rpmmachine.com/shop/html/Mazda-2.2L-1987-1993--F2-B2200-Rebuild-Kit.html


Dev

dev, let me do some searching, i know you can get that for way cheaper.

dev www.mizumoauto.com was just there. not like i saw it before, but theres a spot to leave info to contact. try it out. when i was looking, i found a complete gasket kit, and i swaer it was like 89.00

Thanks mayne...I really appreciate it!

But I don't know if I trust them? Check out this auction, for a Full Set only $32 bucks!!!

That can't be right?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-93-2-2-MAZDA-B2200-F2-Full-Gasket-Set-88-89-90-91-92_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33665QQihZ014QQitemZ330160645745QQtcZphoto

I guess we will wait and see?



Dev

And there Engine Kits are like $260, which is more expensive than the other place...

The other guys can get me the Full Gasket Set as well as the Engine Set for $298.00

So it would be about the same I guess...?

What would you guys do?


Devon

Another thing....

When I get all of the machining done, do I have to get different sized Rod bearings, Main bearings because of the different Bore?

Thanks in advance!


Dev

roadracer wrote:

dev www.mizumoauto.com was just there. not like i saw it before, but theres a spot to leave info to contact. try it out. when i was looking, i found a complete gasket kit, and i swaer it was like 89.00

I just sent them an email with what I need and they replied back saying they do not have a Complete Gasket Kit to rebuild the F2 Block in the B2200?

So, I guess I will be going with the other guys.


Dev

DevB22 wrote:

Another thing....

When I get all of the machining done, do I have to get different sized Rod bearings, Main bearings because of the different Bore?

Thanks in advance!


Dev

only if the crankshaft was turned will you need oversized rod or main bearings. if you just had the cylinders bored than you just have to have the right size pistons, but the machine shop should have the pistons already and bore each cylinder to the piston. this is done because when you say it is bored .030 over it is actually more like .0303456 or something like that. it depends on the actual size of the piston, they are not exactly .030 over. also, get your rods trued. the rods get egged shaped over time and the machine shop will take out any imperfections that need to be taken out. hope the helps bro. later

ryan

oh, and on the gasket set, find a felpro gasket set. they are some of the best sets in my opinion and they are about 100 bucks for a complete rebuild gasket set. later.

Thanks man, that really helped!

Dev

the piston is actually the same size.. the ring set will be for 20, 30 , or more over... don't sweat all the small stuff. have your machinist check it all and you'll be straight... i planned to assemble mine, but at a price of like $900 for everything cleaned, replaced, and assembled - i just paid the man.

the positive side to that as well.. is if something fails.. it's on them.

something to check into tho...
have the rotating assembly balanced.
you wont believe how much smoother it will run and how much easier it will spin up... i'd recommend this everytime.

Good advice on the balancing.

hey byron, what do you mean rotating assy? i don't know if i had it done when i rebuilt my eng or not. just curious. thanks.

ryan

the crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, clutch pressure plate and disc will all be balanced to insure the rotating assembly (all parts listed, bolted together) run true.. that is what balancing does. your machinist usually will not do this without you asking because it requires weighing the parts and spining them to determine where to add or take away metal.. kinda like balancing a tire. tipcally cost about $100 more.. but you can tell the diff.

ok i see. i had my crank turned, rods trued, pistons matched to each cylinder and everything was cleaned and like new when i got it all back. it runs like a champ and i had it all done for about 250. but i can't tell any difference because the eng was no good when i got the truck. haha. that is good information bro.

X2 on good information.

Thanks for all the help guys.


Dev

for as cheap as the balancing is.. i'd do it everytime.
my Honda was balanced, and it spun up much quicker and smoother.. of course it was built so that helps... but it was a definite difference in the feel at idle and when accelerating.

Cool Cool. I hope I can get this thing rebuilt, unless something comes up.


Dev

i know you was talkin about gettin the solid rocker arm assembly from maztang. did you get it? have you done the conversion? or are you gonna wait and do it when you do the build?

the advantage of this solid lifter deal is just no ticking... right?

the reason for doing the solid lifter is because when mr. mazda decided to try hydro lifters our 2200's was his guinea pig im afraid. the design was awful. even if you go buy new lifters i've heard of them collapsing and not pumping back up causing the tick in less than six months. with the solid lifters its just a piece of metal in a shape of a cylinder that is threaded on top. they'll will last forever because they are so long and they have plenty of adjustment to adjust when they wear a little bit. you may have to adjust these things every 6 months or a year depending on how much you drive the truck. but your driving you hear some ticking, go home, pop the valve cover, adjust a little and bota bing bota boom no more ticking. and i used the 2000 cam because it has a different run up than the 2200 causing it to wear a litle quicker with the solids. and if you use the 2200 there will always be a little tick that you cant get out. so if you can use the 2000 cam.

dropped90 wrote:

i know you was talkin about gettin the solid rocker arm assembly from maztang. did you get it? have you done the conversion? or are you gonna wait and do it when you do the build?

Yep I got it, just waiting to see what happens with the truck. If I do the conversion it will be during the rebuild. I am looking to get a 2000 Cam now as well, after reading your Write-Up.

So if you guys know anyone that is looking to get rid of one let me know.

Thanks.


Dev

if you have a local pull-apart i would start there. you can get parts from them for super cheap. just look at the mileage. i mean most people dont take care of there engines like they are supposed too. so try to stay away from high miles. and just inspect before you buy.